Good Old Balmain

Good Old Balmain

You can rely on Christophe Decarnin to storm the catwalk: he sent the Balmain models to war with his revised military chic focusing on glittering sequinned armour contrasting with uniform jackets.
Inspired by Mad Max, the newest collection certainly has a harsher look than previous seasons, with masculine fabrics: battered leather, ripped jeans, khaki separates, bondage string laces and Burberry-esque leather belts studded with bullets.

He used a sombre palette of blacks, deep blues, matt khakis, bronze sequins and shining patent dark leathers, which I think could have benefited from uplifting splashes of brights, bearing in mind this is a spring/summer collection. Sticking to his guns, there was his celebrated strong shoulder - albeit toned down - and he kept to his famed military styling of epaulettes, uniform buttons, and medallion-emblazoned blazers.

Clearly confident that his ridiculous price points will be met, there were lots of simple pieces: ripped plain cotton tops, tatty oversized men's shirts, loosely-fitting dresses and a more thrown together, casual feel than before. Personally I'd be gutted spending £1,200 on a grey basic tee with holes and ladders in, but such is his luck I'm sure items with a less structured look will be all over the high streets in a few months...

Overall, the collection was strong with an aggressive, tatty disco military look - fashion is a battleground so it suits.