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Menswear in Milan

19 January 2010

Menswear collections often focus on outerwear and this week the AW10/11 season is no exception: Milan has been about coats, coats, coats. Hooded, tailored, long, blazers, fur-trimmed, retro, slim fit etc etc.

I love the tweed suits in petrol blue (above) and an unusual washed teal/ dull bottle green (hard to describe, what is that?) colour in Ermenegildo Zegna's collection. Some suits were shapeless, some were dandy (below), some were oddly Bugsy Malone with the long lapels, 20s trilbies and long swishing coats but all had a touch of geek chic which works for me. Plus, coloured leather gloves and woollen art teacher blazers? Well done Ermenigildo Zegna.

Gucci was camel-heavy and chanelling the brown heritage vibe - the look was all about the toned-down, nostalgic country gent of yesteryear complete with sensible loafers and the signature retro red and green stripes. Soldiering on in the same "timeless" equestrian direction as womenswear, then.

CP Company was bizarrely hit and miss veering from bland American mountain ranger in sportswear, to urban, rugged hobo to simple, slick monochrome (above). This guy looks quality; the hits are high hits. The colours were muted and dark, apart from a few autumnal shades of mustard yellow and reds (below).

Like Gucci, another big gun failed to deliver: Versace's collection fell flat on its face with a hideous 90s Matrix vision of shiny leather jackets and "futuristic" cuts. The less said the better, in my opinion.

Roberto Cavalli, as ever, was frivolous, flamboyant and fun (above). Smart narrow trousers, slim dinner jackets, dark shiny fabrics, Vivienne-esque tartan and his playful leopard print pulled the collection together as grown-up and sexy and wearable.

FYI I genuinely care about the menswear collections, it has nothing to do with the models.

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